To dismantle the gearbox in the manual models, loosen the gearbox and the clutch, and in the automatic models, loosen the automatic transmission. The flywheel/driveplate bolts are offset so that they fit correctly; they are unscrewed with the flywheel/driveplate clamped still, a temporary screwdriver used in the cylinder block, and a screwdriver or special holding tool. Removal The flywheel/driveplate must be lifted off the crankshaft, with any shim and spacer being recorded in case of a driveplate removal. Look at the flywheel/driveplate to confirm it is not worn out or damaged, especially starter ring gear (to excessive tooth wear), then the whole driveplate has to be replaced, though flywheel ring gear can be removed and replaced by a dealer. In case the clutch friction face become discolored or scored excessively, they may be regrinded, but also should be attended by a dealer. The reset flywheel/driveplate will only have a TDC mark and an ignition timing mark at a particular distance to the TDC mark must be added. Without the flywheel, inspect the spigot needle bearing, and in case the wear is too much, replace it with a bearing removal puller, and make sure the new bearing is forced into place properly. To refit, undo the process in the reverse order and put locking fluid on the threads of the new bolts and tighten them to the recommended torque. When a replacement driveplate is installed, verify and adjust position, as required, and ensure that the distance between the rear face of the block and the torque converter mounting face is within specification, and wipe locking fluid on the bolts and make the raised pip face the torque converter.