The electric fuel pump is located beneath the right-hand side of the car and is a sealed unit, making the brushes and commutator inaccessible for servicing; the only available replacement part is the check valve on the fuel outlet. Before removing the pump, ensure the car is in a well-ventilated area, free from ignition hazards, and avoid working on the fuel system when the car is over an inspection pit. Disconnect the battery leads and the wires from the pump, noting their connections. Clean all dirt from the fuel pipe unions, disconnect the fuel pipe from the tank to the pump, and seal the end to prevent leakage, then disconnect the pipe from the outlet check valve and cover it to keep out dirt. Remove the bolt securing the fuel pump clamp and take off the clamp. The outlet check valve can be unscrewed if necessary, but the pump body should not be held in a vice; instead, grip the valve in the vice and turn the pump by hand or use a spanner on the valve with a strap wrench on the pump body. The pump must remain immersed in petrol to avoid irreparable damage, and its capacity exceeds the engine's fuel requirement, making it unlikely for output to fall below adequate levels. To test a suspect pump while on the vehicle, disconnect the two wires and connect a voltmeter across them, operating the starter to check for a minimum of 11.5 volts; if the voltage is lower, inspect the battery and the pump connections. Connect an ammeter into the pump circuit, run the pump, and ensure it draws about 8.5 amps; if the current exceeds this, a new pump is necessary. If satisfactory voltage and current readings are obtained but output remains questionable, verify that the
Fuel Filter is installed correctly with the arrow indicating the direction of flow and that a new filter was fitted at the appropriate maintenance interval. Reinstallation follows the reverse order of removal.